guide

How to choose winter gloves - the guide we wish we’d had ourselves

Så väljer du vinterhandskar, guiden vi själva hade velat läsa

Short answer

Choose a winter glove based on how you move, not just the thermometer. If you stand still in severe cold - on a snowmobile, on the ice or by a fire - you need a mitten with plenty of insulation and a shell that keeps the wind out. If you move a lot, you need a glove that lets moisture out. Fit then determines whether the insulation actually does its job: a glove that is too tight will be cold, no matter how much is stated on the label.

We did not start with the idea of starting a glove company. We started with cold hands. One February evening in 2018, after yet another trip where the gloves had become wet, stiff and eventually broken, we stated the obvious: this should be possible to do better.

Since then, we have taken gloves apart, rebuilt prototypes, sent materials back and started over. We live and test in a climate with roughly seven months of winter a year, between the coast and the mountains in the north, and we have developed several of our gloves together with mountain guides and reindeer herders. It has taught us one thing above all: warmth in a glove is not a property. It is a system. Insulation, moisture, wind, fit and how you use your hands work together. If one part is wrong, the rest matters less.

This is the guide we ourselves would have wanted to read before we started. It is long. Feel free to jump straight to whatever you are wondering about.

Myr Nordals mitten in white goatskin
Nordals in white - mitten with removable liner, temperature rating –30 °C.

1. Start with the situation, not the temperature

The most common question we get is "how cold can it handle?". That is a reasonable question, but it only tells half the story. The same glove can feel too warm on a ski trip at –15 °C and too cold on an ice-fishing seat at –8 °C. The difference is how much heat your body produces itself.

When you move, your body pumps warm blood into your hands. When you stand still, your body prioritizes your core, and your hands get less. That is why the coldest hands often occur when you stop moving - during a break, on a snowmobile, or in a hunting stand.

Situation What your hands need most
Sitting still in the cold (snowmobile, ice fishing, hunting) Maximum insulation, windproof shell, preferably mittens
Skiing and snowboarding Warmth plus protection from snow and moisture, good cuff
Cross-country skiing, ski touring, high exertion Breathability and less insulation - the sweat has to get out
Dog walking, commuting, everyday life Warmth with good dexterity, easy to take off and put on
Outdoor work Grip, durability, reinforcements - and a liner that can be dried
Children in snow and slush Warmth, durability, easy to put on - and liners that are dry for the next break

If you want to go deeper into the question of temperature, we have written our own temperature guide from 0 to –35 °C.

2. Mittens or finger gloves?

A mitten is warmer than a finger glove made from the same materials. It comes down to simple physics: four fingers in a shared space have less surface area that gives off heat, and they warm each other. In a finger glove, each finger is alone in its own tunnel with cold air all around it.

The price of warmth is dexterity. In mittens, you are less precise when fastening things, have a poorer grip on small objects, and find it harder to handle equipment. That is why the choice depends on how often you need your fingers.

  • Mittens when warmth matters most: severe cold, sitting still, snowmobiling, and long days outdoors. For example, Nordals and Arvidsjaur Mitts.
  • Finger gloves when you need to grip, adjust, and handle things frequently. For example, Nuolja, one of our warmest finger gloves.

Read more in Mittens or finger gloves – which are warmer and why?

3. Insulation: the air is what keeps you warm

Insulation itself does not generate warmth. Your body provides the warmth. The insulation's job is to retain as much still air as possible around your hand, because still air conducts heat poorly. The more small, still air pockets there are, the more slowly the warmth escapes.

That is why people talk about loft – how much the insulation fluffs up and how much air it holds. And that is why compression is insulation's greatest enemy. When the insulation is compressed – by a glove that is too small, by a tight grip on a snowmobile handlebar, or because the liner has become packed down after many seasons – the air disappears, and with it the warmth.

A few things we have learned about insulation:

  • More grams does not automatically mean more warmth. Where the insulation is placed matters just as much. The back of the hand needs the most, while the palm needs to be able to grip.
  • Moisture is the decisive factor. Insulation that retains its warmth even when it gets damp is more important in a glove than almost anywhere else, because your hands always sweat. That is why we use PrimaLoft® – in our own combination that we have developed – and, in some models, together with wool.
  • A removable liner is an underrated detail. It can be dried separately, replaced when it wears out, and adapted to the activity and weather.

We have written an article of our own about how a warm glove is constructed, layer by layer.

4. Moisture – the silent thief of warmth

Water conducts heat approximately 20–25 times better than air. A damp glove is therefore a cold glove, even if it is thick. And the moisture comes from two directions.

From the outside: melting snow, wet snow, water, slush. A membrane or a tight, waxed shell helps here.

From the inside: sweat. Hands, and especially palms, have many sweat glands. Someone skiing in a glove that is far too warm gets wet from the inside and then freezes during the next break. This is one of the most common causes of cold hands, and one that is rarely discussed.

The practical advice: use a glove that matches the activity, take it off for a while when you get warm, and dry it thoroughly before the next day. An extra dry liner in your pack makes a big difference on long days – that is why we sell our Arctic Inner liners separately.

5. Waterproof with a membrane – or without?

We make both, and it is a deliberate choice. A membrane keeps water out from the outside but breathes less well than a construction without a membrane. That is why the answer varies depending on where and how you spend time outdoors.

  • A membrane is best in wet snow, slush, skiing, and when your hands are often in contact with water and snow. Arvidsjaur Mitts have a breathable waterproof membrane positioned beneath the leather.
  • Without a membrane can be better in cold, dry conditions where the snow does not melt, during high activity, and when you want more hand feel. Nordals and Nuolja are built this way as standard.
  • Both in the same glove. Nordals and Nuolja can be supplemented with our waterproof Arctic Wool liner. This gives the same glove a waterproof layer when the weather requires it.

The full discussion can be found in Waterproof winter glove or without a membrane – which is best?

6. Wind makes the cold feel twice as cold

Wind blows away the thin layer of warmed air closest to the hand and penetrates loosely woven materials. On a snowmobile traveling at 60 km/h, –20 °C effectively feels like around –36 °C on bare skin. That is why a winter glove needs an outer shell that keeps out the wind – leather, tightly woven fabric such as Cordura, or a membrane – and a cuff that does not let air in at the wrist.

7. Fit determines everything else

Approximately half of all the returns we handle are related to size. That says something about how difficult it is to choose the right one – and how important it is.

A winter glove should fit close to the hand without pinching. A little space in front of the fingertips is good; it is part of the insulation. If the glove is too tight, the insulation is compressed and blood flow to the fingers is reduced - a double disadvantage. If it is too loose, you get a poorer grip and more cold air moving inside the glove.

Leather molds to the hand over time. A leather glove that feels slightly snug on the first day often settles in, while synthetic materials do not behave the same way. If you are between two sizes, we usually recommend the larger one, especially if you want to use a thin liner glove.

Measure your hand using our size guide, or read How a winter glove should fit.

8. The wrist - where heat escapes

The inside of the wrist has large blood vessels close to the skin. If the wrist is bare between the jacket sleeve and glove, the blood cools on its way to the hands. There are two ways to close this gap, and we use both:

  • Over the jacket. Nuolja and Nordals have an extra-wide collar that goes over most down jackets and keeps cold and snow out from the outside.
  • Under the jacket. Arvidsjaur Mitts have a cuff that extends under the jacket sleeve and seals against the wrist from the inside, with a snow cuff that keeps snow out.

Which option is best depends on the jacket and how you move. The important thing is that there is no gap when you stretch your arms forward.

9. Layering works for hands too

A thin merino wool liner glove under the outer glove provides a little extra warmth, manages moisture, and lets you take off the outer glove to tie knots, take photos, or use your phone without being completely bare-handed. Wool insulates even when damp. Morken is our thin merino wool liner, with an opening for the index finger so you can access your phone - or the trigger while hunting - without freezing.

One important caveat: the liner glove must not make the outer glove too tight. Otherwise, you lose more than you gain.

10. Buy once, use for a long time

A good winter glove should not need replacing after one season. Goat leather withstands wear well and improves over time when cared for. Double layers of leather on the areas that experience the most wear extend its lifespan. A removable lining can be replaced when it wears out, allowing you to keep the outer glove. That is how we think: made to be worn, without wearing out.

Read more about leather gloves, care and wax.

Quick guide: which glove is right for you?

You should… Choose At Myr
ride a snowmobile or be outside in severe cold Insulated mitten Nordals (-30 °C), Arvidsjaur Mitts (-30 °C)
ski in wetter snow Waterproof glove with membrane Arvidsjaur Mitts
snowboard or alpine ski Mitten with removable lining Ingemar Backman Legends Edition
have both warmth and dexterity Warm glove with removable lining Nuolja (-20 °C)
have a classic leather glove for winter Five-finger glove in full-grain goatskin Abisko (0 to -20 °C)
dress a child for playing in the snow Insulated children's glove with removable lining Videmyr, mitten or glove
hike, cycle or work in spring and autumn Lightly insulated or unlined leather glove Tjuonavagge, Storbäck
Myr Nuolja brown goatskin glove
Nuolja in brown - finger glove with removable lining, temperature rating -20 °C.

Frequently asked questions

What are the warmest winter gloves?

Generally, an insulated mitten with a windproof shell and a good fit is the warmest. But "warmest" depends on how you use it. A mitten that fits too tightly will be colder than a well-fitting glove.

How cold can a winter glove handle?

Temperature ratings are guidance, never promises. Perceived warmth is affected by activity, wind, moisture, fit, how long you are outside and how easily you get cold.

Should you buy winter gloves larger or smaller?

Slightly larger rather than too small. A glove that is too small compresses the insulation and reduces blood flow. If you are between two sizes, choose the larger one if you want room for a thin liner glove.

Are leather gloves good for winter?

Yes. Leather is windproof, durable and provides good grip. Wax also makes it more water-repellent. However, leather needs to be dried correctly - never on a radiator, in a drying cabinet or in a tumble dryer.

Read more

Written by David Andersson, founder of Myr Outdoor. Myr develops gloves in Norrbotten, where winter lasts approximately seven months of the year and the products are tested in real-world use.

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